Rajasthan April 2009: Days Three and Four

Tuesday-Wednesday, April 7-8, 2009

It was time to head to Jodhpur- the Sun City. After twiddling thumbs at the airport for more than two hours, we finally got on to a tiny plane that took us to Jodhpur.

Jodhpur is like any other town in India, with simply-dressed people, crowded market places and poor public transportation. But what I missed (and liked) the most was the lack of screaming outdooor hoardings that hit you in Bombay. There were no messages to urging me to watch a regressive TV programme or buy an expensive laptop I don't need. However, the few outdoor ads that I saw were mostly exhorting me to vote for an old man trying to become PM. Other major differences- the non-existent skyline, the easygoing attitude, and the fact that their autos don't have meters! So this is how it works: you tell the auto driver where you want to go. He quotes a price. You bargain or you agree. Either way, you go.

That evening, we shopped, and we shopped, and then we shopped some more. A family friend settled in Jodhpur led our expedition through the land of cotton and handmade fabrics, bandhini, leheriya... you name it. And we discovered that this inconspicuous town has amazing stuff at great prices.

Next morning, we headed to Mehrangarh Fort, built on a hill. Built in the 15th century by Rao Jodha, it overlooks the Blue City. (The Blue City is an area with a large number of blue homes- indicating that Brahmins reside there. Yes, the caste system still exists.) Encircling the blue houses is a 10-km long wall which served as a deterrent for possible invaders, and closely resembles the Great Wall of China.

I was happy to note that the fort is one of the cleanest public places in India I have seen. The guide was made it clear when he said- the fort is run by a private trust. No wonder! :-)

There is lots to see in the fort- the royal family's weapons, ornate silver palanquins, the bedrooms and entertainment areas and the open courtyards. Needless to say, the fort is well-preserved. The fort shop is worth a visit too.

From there we went to nearby Jaswant Thada, the tomb of earlier kings of the region. The architectural style is similar to that of the fort, with small gardens as you walk toward the main tombs.

As the sun beat down on us from the noon sky, we went shopping again. This time for bangles and jootis. The marketplace was crowded, and the lanes are too narrow for even a small car. Wiser to hail an autorickshaw. I noticed some signboards in French at the entrance of the market. And tourists were lurking around. But further inside, even tourists disappear.

Anyone in Jodhpur will tell you proudly that Maharaja Gaj Singh lives in the palace his grandfather built over a period of 15 years starting in 1928. It's now called Umaid Bhawan Palace, and after a series of ownership changes, is now run by the Taj group of hotels.

We weren't staying there, but visited the museum. You can't go to the hotel unless you're staying there or having a meal. The museum is not grand, but you can see several photographs and artifacts. They have an entire gallery of clocks and crockery! The lifestyle of the erstwhile Maharajas was entirely luxurious, resplendent and they left no stone unturned in ensuring everything was impeccable and to classy taste. Nothing OTT, classy yet understated.

Well, I knew I was coming back to Jodhpur in three days, so left some shopping and other good stuff for Saturday.

More on that later...